Name: Sunday _Ragù_
Cook time: 1 3/4
Total time: 4 hr
Yield: Makes 12
Ingredients: 5 (28-ounce) cans whole tomatoes in juice (preferably Italian); 1/2 cup olive oil; 1 large onion, finely chopped; 5 garlic cloves, minced; 1 Turkish bay leaf or 1/2 California; 4 garlic cloves, minced; 1/2 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley; 1 cup grated Pecorino Romano (2 ounces); 3 ounces thinly sliced pancetta, finely chopped; 1 1/2 pounds beef top round, cut across the grain into 1/4-inch slices; Reserved meat mixture and frying oil from polpette; 1/2 cup olive oil for frying, divided; 1 pound sweet Italian sausage links; 1 pound hot Italian sausage links; 1 1/2 pound boneless pork shoulder, cut into 2-inch pieces; 2 pounds country-style pork ribs; Equipment: kitchen string; Accompaniment: fresh egg fettuccine

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Sunday RagùJohn Valiant

This bottomless bowl of meat sauce is the stuff of dreams—the American Dream, in particular. In Italy, ragù would have been flavored with a small piece of pork, but because meat was so readily available in the United States, immigrants included beef braciole, meatballs, sweet and hot sausage, and pork shoulder and ribs. This dish requires hours on the stovetop to make the meat tender and juicy and the sauce thick and intense, but it's well worth waiting for.

Cooks' note:

Tomato sauce with meats can be made 4 days ahead and chilled (covered once cool).