I'm not sure if shrimp is so popular because of its versatility or if it's the other way around. In any event, shrimp is one of America's favorite seafoods, so I was a bit surprised not to find a tradition of shrimp chowder anywhere in this country. The lion's share of chowders orignated in New England, but shrimp are only caught here in the winter, up in Maine. "Maine" shrimp (Borealus red shrimp) are small and delicate. They are good in a quick-cooked stew or pureed in a rich bisque, but they become very soft in the extended cooking time involved in making a chowder. In the Southern states, along the East Coast and the Gulf Coast, big white shrimp are abundant, but they are traditionally cooked in gumbos and "muddles" (seafood stews). And I found no trace of an authentic shrimp chowder on the West Coast. So, starting with a clean slate, I was able to create a chowder that expressed what I think a shrimp chowder should be. The is a lovely creamy pink chowder with delicious fennel flavor.
If you are lucky enough to be able to purchase fresh shrimp, they will make outstanding chowder. However, good-quality frozen shrimp will also make a terrific chowder. Generally, there are two types of frozen shrimp: "white" shrimp, which are wild, and "tiger prawns" (which we incorrectly call shrimp), which are farm-raised. The white shrimp are superior to the tigers. Frozen shrimp should be defrosted slowly, in the refrigerator, for the best texture.
In keeping with the humble spirit of chowder, I use small shrimp (26 to 40 count per pound), which are less expensive than the larger ones. I also like this size because I can just slice the shrimp lengthwise in half, maintaining their natural curved shape, which is similar to the fennel. But larger shrimp are just fine for chowder if you cut them into bite-sized pieces; actually, their texture is a little better than the smaller shrimp. Dont use any shrimp smaller than 40 count.
For equipment, you will need a 10- to 12-inch high-sided skillet or sauté pan, a fine-mesh strainer, a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot with a lid, a wooden spoon, and a ladle.
