When friends found out I was writing a book on ice cream, many felt compelled to “help out” by passing along really odd flavor combinations they’d either seen or heard of. But somehow, I just couldn’t seem to get enthusiastic about combinations like Clam-Raisin or Duck Fat Swirl. However, when Judy Witts raved about this combination, which she’d enjoyed at her local gelateria in Florence, it piqued my interest. After a bit of trial and error, I discovered that the key to preserving the character of pecorino is to very finely dice the cheese rather than grating it. The little bites of salty cheese are the perfect counterpoint to the fruity, pear-flavored custard.
Recipe information
Yield
makes about 1 quart (1 liter)
Ingredients
Preparation
Step 1
Cut the pears into 1/2-inch (2-cm) pieces. Cook them with the water in a medium, nonreactive saucepan, covered, over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the pears are cooked through, about 10 minutes. Purée in a food processor or blender until smooth. You should have about 1 1/2 cups (375 ml) purée.
Step 2
Use a chef’s knife to cut the pecorino into very thin slices, then chop the slices into small pieces about the size of grains of rice. Put them in a large bowl, add the sour cream, and set a mesh strainer over the top.
Step 3
Warm the half-and-half and sugar in a medium saucepan. In a separate medium bowl, whisk together the egg yolks. Slowly pour the warm half-and-half into the egg yolks, whisking constantly, then scrape the warmed egg yolks back into the saucepan.
Step 4
Stir the mixture constantly over medium heat with a heatproof spatula, scraping the bottom as you stir, until the mixture thickens and coats the spatula. Pour the custard through the strainer and stir it into the pecorino and sour cream. Mix in the lemon juice and pear purée, then stir until cool over an ice bath.
Step 5
Chill the mixture thoroughly in the refrigerator, then freeze it in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
Perfect Pairing
Step 6
Serve with Marsala-Roasted Pears. For 6 servings, lop a small piece off the bottom of 6 Bosc pears. Set them upright in a baking dish just big enough to fit them all snugly and pour 3/4 cup (180 ml) Marsala wine over the pears. Sprinkle with 1/3 cup (65 g) sugar, then bake in a preheated 375°F (190°C) oven for 40 minutes, basting the pears with the juices occasionally. Serve warm or at room temperature, with a scoop of Pear-Pecorino Ice Cream and a spoonful of the Marsala syrup.
