Name: Classic Manhattan Clam Chowder
Yield: Serves 6
Ingredients: 48 cherrystone clams; A little bottled clam juice (if necessary); Quarter pound bacon, cut into quarter-inch dice; 1 large onion, peeled and cut into quarter-inch dice; 1 celery stalk, cut into quarter-inch dice; 1 carrot, cut into quarter-inch dice; 2 medium russet potatoes, peeled and cut into half-inch cubes; 28-ounce can plum tomatoes, drained and coarsely chopped; 2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves

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Classic Manhattan Clam ChowderCookbook cover image courtesy of Random House

New Englanders find the very idea of tomatoes in clam chowder to be abhorrent; of course, by referring to the aberration as "Manhattan clam chowder" they're overlooking the fact that their own Rhode Islanders also add tomatoes to clam chowder. And let's not forget about the hundreds of ethnic cuisines around the world that combine tomatoes with shellfish in soups and stews. Unlike the New England purists, we just don't find an intrinsic problem with clams and tomatoes. We do find, however, that most Manhattan clam chowder served in restaurants is positively awful: thin, unclammy, often tasting like vegetable soup out of a can with a few canned clams thrown in. Try the following recipe, and you'll see how good this soup can be.

Recipe notes